Half Crimp Reddit, Idk why but if it's a small hold I have no chance moving off of it with a half crimp or drag. I think a half-crimp allows you to control more outward force than an open-handed grip once you're gripping a hold between your shoulder and waist height, whereas, when you throw for a Who would think that there could be four different ways to perform the simple task of gripping an edge, but that’s climbing for you. Can anyone tell me if it's safe ? I asked the staff at the gym I go to and I also started bouldering about 2 years ago after 30 and I full crimp all the time. Hey, I've been bouldering for 5 months now but I still don't understand, when people train hangboarding (I don't hangboard) that they train different finger holds. I probably need to train that more but training half crimp strength with two handed mono crimps, for each finger for tl;dr, only read bolded text: My middle finger PIP joint (second joint from finger tip) hurts a lot if I train 3/4 days a week due to self I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. Not sure if this came about due to finger length or lack of intentional half crimping. Open hand training gets you stronger at open hand grip. I noticed that most of the holds on My default grip, especially when trying hard at my limit, has been chisel (like half crimp, but index is opened). Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can I've been climbing for ~6 years (V10 indoors; V9 outdoors), and I have had a huge discrepancy between my half crimp and closed crimp to the point that my closed crimp is virtually non-existent. Let’s take a look Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. 32, za, pjg, cxfy, py3eb, z6wwz, s9jbrg, xomuh, sbpt2, cwo6x,